Jerri Mcmahon Harbor Freight January 02nd, 2020 - 05:38:21
Now then, the other day I was paging through a tool catalog for Harbor Freight and Salvage and there were a number of generator and pressure washers available. Some of which were from China, and I have nothing against quality equipment from whatever country it comes from, but there is a big difference in quality, and a big difference in cost. Further there is a large gap between the number of decimals some of this equipment puts out, and it does matter, especially if you are detailing cars in a parking lot nearby offices.
Shortages of money for tape can be a factor. I always keep on the lookout for discarded rolls of partially used tape while digging through the construction rubble. A lot of contractors leave behind all different kinds of tape. Ductape (not very paintable but strong as hell!) is always in abundance around tract home sites. The tape the stucco lathers use around here to seal their 3/4" foam board is THE BEST for our intended application. It is pretty much a veneer with adhesive and it paints just like cardboard.
Corrugated board usually consists of outer flat sheets (veneers) of puncture resistant paper, sandwiching a central "filling" of corrugated short fiber paper (fluting), which resists crushing under compression and gives cushioning protection to the box's contents. The cardboard has high end-to-end strength along the corrugated flutes, so the box is normally designed with the corrugation running vertically for stacking strength.
All good composters have a good vent system. You want air to circulate throughout your compost, but you don't want to let bugs in with the air. My barrel already had two holes in the top so I cut two 2" holes in the bottom that lined up with them. I then cut two lengths of 2" PVC pipe long enough to stick out of the barrel about 1 ½" top and bottom and then drilled several ½" holes in both pipes along the length that will be inside the barrel. After inserting the vent pipes in the barrel I then glued the Nibco fittings on the ends. This fitting has a screw-on cap that would have been used as a pressure fitting for a slip joint. Just unscrewed these caps and cut out a piece of screen cloth to fit inside them. Screw the caps on to the pipes then use some putty to fill any gaps between the pipes and the holes you had cut in the barrel. Find a good place set up, place the barrel on its platform and start throwing in those table scraps and grass clippings. It would be a good idea to keep the compost level inside the barrel just below the vent pipes so that rotating the barrel won't be too much of a task.
While this is a bench designed for light to moderate loads, you might consider replacing the worksurface's fiberboards with lengths of 1½ X4 inch lumber, suitably drilled holes for the plastic dogging clamp inserts. If you are comfortable with a power planer or router, make a suitable undercut to clear the hand cranks and use 1 ½ X 6 inch planks for the work surfaces. That will give you a wider working surface when the two panels are cranked to the max.
I like creating with my hands. I especially enjoy creating useful items out of wood. Unfortunately, my self-designed and self-built garage 6 X 3 foot workbench has a tendency to become littered with miscellaneous "stuff", and I find myself at my wit's end attempting to build projects on a piece of plywood strung across two folding sawhorses. Not ideal, I will agree. I do appreciate the convenience of being able to take down and put away the components of my makeshift working surface. What I don't like is that the working surface is not that stable and requires a separate set of clamps to hold the working top to the sawhorses.