Gale Chase Harbor Freight December 11th, 2019 - 02:32:34
The fundamental secret to a successful fire is planning. Good fires do not just happen, they are made. What you will need to build the perfect fire is a chimney starter, fuel (hardwood, charcoal, or both), and either newspaper or lighter cubes. If you are using newspaper, crumple two full sheets and stuff into the bottom of the chimney starter. If you prefer lighter cubes (my personal preference) just place one under the chimney starter. Fill the chimney with fist-sized chunks of hardwood, or charcoal, then light the newspaper or lighter cube. When the wood chunks are glowing embers, or the charcoal is covered in gray ash, dump the chimney contents in the firebox.
The grommet gives us a strong anchor point without worrying about any tearing or ripping or having nails or staples pull away from the wall from it's weight. A small round punch is used to make a perfect circle. I use a small scrap of plywood underneath the cutting operation so as not to dull the cutter. A steel base with 1/2 the grommet poking through the hole is placed below the cardboard. The other 1/2 of the grommet is placed on top of this with a steel punch made to curl the soft metal grommet in the base then smacked with a hammer till it seats down. Do not beat the piss out of it since the grommet since it crimps itself onto the cardboard. You would wind up with an even bigger hole that I'm not quite sure they make grommets for.
Private Labels and Brands - Majority of the items being sold by Harbor Freight bear private label store brands or products that are produced by other manufacturers. The products usually have American Sounding brands but are actually made overseas. No need to worry though because the company offers a lifetime warranty for all the hand tools and equipment.
Each of the hand crank lead screws goes through an end plate that's bent from the leg support sheet metal. If you look closely, you'll notice that the lead screw plate is secured to the sidewalls by two sheet metal "ears" and two small dimples in the sidewalls. That looks like a potential source of failure downstream: nothing prevents the sidewalls from separating and allowing the crank to become loose. My fix? Simple: I installed a clamping and securing bolt through the sidewalls just behind the end plate. To secure the sideplates and preventing them from spreading apart, about 1 inch from the end plate, I drilled a ¼" clearance hole through the two sideplates (that also mount the legs) and put a 1 ½ inch long, ¼ -20 bolt with a washer and a locknut. Tightening the locknut makes the endplate securely clamped to the sidewall plates; this will prevent any tendency for that endplate holding the leadscrew and cranking handles from coming loose over time.
Prior to the tool, boards were cut out in partial sections, next came along a hammer and chisel. All the remaining splinters needed removal plus nails if it was a nail down fastened floor. This tool can slice nails in one pass or remove older adhesives in simple fashion. In previous days a hand held floor scraper or sharp chisel was needed for the work.