Juana Golden Harbor Freight January 04th, 2020 - 01:14:26
There seems to be a lot of confusion about whether or not to soak the hardwood before burning it. First, do not bother with chips because they are a waste of time and money. You can readily obtain hardwood chunks from Walmart, Lowes, or Home Depot. There is simply no benefit to be derived from soaking your hardwood chunks. Chris Allingham has a video on just how much water penetration is achieved in an overnight soaking. View it at http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rv7y1TWyKEw. Additionally, that wet wood is going to have to dry before it will burn. The drying process is going to create steam and that steam can contain creosote. Once the drying wood starts to burn, it is going to produce that thick, white smoke which will carry creosote. Remember, you want clear, blue smoke.
The Kitchen Back Splash. Do it yourself. Hi My name is Bill and I have taught ceramic tile installation to the local community college for several years. I will attempt to do this again with my only tool being words. First preparation is the biggest part of the project. Laying out where the tile will go. This is a process of measuring what is available. Measure the available wall space. Then set 4 tile side by side like they will look on the wall. Measure the total amount of linear distance they will take up. Why? Well how you transition back to the wall from the tile is one of the most critical parts to how it looks. A full piece out at the counter or breakfast nook is preferable to a very thin piece with a cut edge right next to the dinner's eye level. Also you will need to plan one inch for the Bull nose tile. This is the tile that has a glazed transition back to the wall surface. Go into Lowes and ask some questions or visit Home despot online for some video trainings.
I noticed that the board that's mounted to the hand-cranked lead screw that makes the work surface boards function as a built-in vise, was loose, and flopped around as the handles were cranked. To remedy this, I used a wrench to tighten the crank shaft attachment on the moveable work surface so that there was less play as the unit is cranked. Don't over tighten, or the board won't move at all!
Router: 1 1/2 to 2 HP find a good used one, unless it's been dropped and kicked around a lot a good router lasts a long time, two things to look for first brushes that can still be bought and easily changed and two both a 1/4 and 1/2 inch Collete. a router that uses only a 1/4 Collete is of very limited use. if you can a new router of good quality can be bought for $100.00 and you really don't need a plunge router ( but they are nice ).
Be sure to lubricate all moving surfaces with oil, WD-40™ or a dry film lubricant (You can use a light grease on the two lead screws, but if you grease the sliding rail, I think you'll find that the grease will probably be a sawdust magnet!). Be sure to lubricate all sliding or rotating joints and connectors, especially those added washers on the legs where they mount to the sideplates.
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