Brooke Mccullough Harbor Freight January 04th, 2020 - 01:19:11
Each of the hand crank lead screws goes through an end plate that's bent from the leg support sheet metal. If you look closely, you'll notice that the lead screw plate is secured to the sidewalls by two sheet metal "ears" and two small dimples in the sidewalls. That looks like a potential source of failure downstream: nothing prevents the sidewalls from separating and allowing the crank to become loose. My fix? Simple: I installed a clamping and securing bolt through the sidewalls just behind the end plate. To secure the sideplates and preventing them from spreading apart, about 1 inch from the end plate, I drilled a ¼" clearance hole through the two sideplates (that also mount the legs) and put a 1 ½ inch long, ¼ -20 bolt with a washer and a locknut. Tightening the locknut makes the endplate securely clamped to the sidewall plates; this will prevent any tendency for that endplate holding the leadscrew and cranking handles from coming loose over time.
I noticed that the board that's mounted to the hand-cranked lead screw that makes the work surface boards function as a built-in vise, was loose, and flopped around as the handles were cranked. To remedy this, I used a wrench to tighten the crank shaft attachment on the moveable work surface so that there was less play as the unit is cranked. Don't over tighten, or the board won't move at all!
So last weekend I ventured to Harbor Freight to pick up their little 8 pound inverter welder. I spent $200 though because I needed a good autodarkening helmet, a chipping hammer, and some magnets. I got the 2 year warranty just in case. Yes I know, many people like to give the Chinese welders a bad rap. But let me just say that this little welder is quite good considering the money. It is not meant for the professional welder who does structural work but for art purposes it suits me fine. I am using 6013 1/16 " electrodes at this time. I have noticed they are a bit shallow and sometimes on small joints I have to go over them because the first time it is only flux that really lays down. Any civilized suggestion is appreciated.
Prior to the tool, boards were cut out in partial sections, next came along a hammer and chisel. All the remaining splinters needed removal plus nails if it was a nail down fastened floor. This tool can slice nails in one pass or remove older adhesives in simple fashion. In previous days a hand held floor scraper or sharp chisel was needed for the work.
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One of the most useful devices that I have chanced upon has been the battery booster packs. This is an ideal item for any survivalist to keep in their bug out vehicle. The power packages can be readily purchased through any of the department stores such as Wal-Mart's or from just about any auto parts supplier. I found an exceptionally good one online at all-cordless. This unit it not only a battery booster pack but also a compressor and an emergency work light.