Gale Chase Harbor Freight September 27th, 2019 - 04:36:57
A brief word on charcoal. Briquettes are, by far, the most popular charcoal type. They light quickly and burn consistently. However, briquettes are made with additives, and those additives produce more ash. Lump charcoal (made by an oxygen deprived burning of hardwood) has no additives, produces less ash, burns much hotter than briquettes, and imparts a slight essence of the native wood to foods. But the biggest advantage of lump over briquettes is that lump can be added directly to the fire because all of the toxins have been burned out of the lump charcoal. Briquettes must be pre-burned; that means another chimney of coals before adding to the fire.
Most hardware stores, back in the paint section, have what they call an "oops" area. An oops area is where all the custom coloring is done.......sometimes twice. The quart, gallon, and five gallon containers from the employees first attempts at the customers colors are usually reduced price steals. Where else are you going to find five gallons of black 30 year exterior latex enamel for $15.00? Concrete paints, porch and deck polymers, and the always abundant latex varieties are all victims to colorant errors. This is something I do faithfully every time I enter my Home Depot or Orchard Supply Hardware stores. Always seems to be a gallon black or a shade of gray in there all year long. Beware of the paint Nazi who thinks she can tell you how to paint and with what. PVA primer CAN be pigmented.
One of the most useful devices that I have chanced upon has been the battery booster packs. This is an ideal item for any survivalist to keep in their bug out vehicle. The power packages can be readily purchased through any of the department stores such as Wal-Mart's or from just about any auto parts supplier. I found an exceptionally good one online at all-cordless. This unit it not only a battery booster pack but also a compressor and an emergency work light.
Orchard Supply to the rescue once again. The concrete molds have been in stock there forever. So get a walkway mold and align it with on one side or the other of your painted sheet. It's easiest to use a colored pencil similar in color to the color of your base coat. This makes it not so noticeable and you don't always stay within the lines so much, right kids? I tried using a Sharpie on one sheet and I hated myself for all the dark, heavy black lines left to cover. Using the mold upside down, trace the contour of the stones out onto the cardboard. Now, lightly scribe the two outside flanges where the pattern forms a "v" on one side and an "a" on the other side made by the mold's outside shape. These will be the keys to line up the next areas to be scribed since there's no concrete to line up the mold with again and the mold shape itself makes it hard the judge the distance from the last stone to the next to keep the mortar thickness the same. Once I can see the rocks I can't help but miss the ass in my face....yummy.
Lay the box flat on the ground so all of the flaps are visible. Notice the notches die cut into the sheet where the flaps once folded? Run a piece of 2" masking tape, starting from the outside edge of the box, all along the notch, plus about 2-3" beyond and into the field. Repeat for all the notches then walk or slide your foot along the tape to secure it well then turn the sheet over. We are going to tape these same notches again only a little bit different.
There seems to be a lot of confusion about whether or not to soak the hardwood before burning it. First, do not bother with chips because they are a waste of time and money. You can readily obtain hardwood chunks from Walmart, Lowes, or Home Depot. There is simply no benefit to be derived from soaking your hardwood chunks. Chris Allingham has a video on just how much water penetration is achieved in an overnight soaking. View it at http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rv7y1TWyKEw. Additionally, that wet wood is going to have to dry before it will burn. The drying process is going to create steam and that steam can contain creosote. Once the drying wood starts to burn, it is going to produce that thick, white smoke which will carry creosote. Remember, you want clear, blue smoke.