Candy Hunter Harbor Freight January 04th, 2020 - 01:40:22
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When this workbench is assembled according to the directions, when folded, the handles lay pointing down the legs towards the floor. By reversing the way the legs are mounted (exactly reversed from the installation instructions), the handles now are on top of the folded bench, point away from the legs, and the legs do indeed completely fold flat! An easy fix.
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Then, drill a small hole at the end of the crack to relieve pressure and stop the crack from spreading. Next we use a rotary tool to cut a V-notch 5 millimeter wide on the underside of the fairing to give more surface area for the adhesive to attach the two halves of the fairing. Notching on the underside of the fairing helps hide the repair. Next we use a degreaser like Simple Green to clean the plastic of any oil residue or chards of plastic. If the crack is small consider using a two-part plastic epoxy, like the one's that resemble two hypodermic needles, to adhere the plastic together. For bigger cracks we will have to use a soldering iron and melt ABS plastic rods, like the kind sold at Harbor Freight, into the V notch we cut. The key is to get the soldering iron hot and feed but don't force plastic rod into the soldering iron, working the plastic into the puddle. Take your time and work methodically to get melted plastic completely into the cut notch. If the crack is severe it will require bracing that can be made by cutting strips of plastic and adhering the plastic with epoxy across both sides of the crack.
Each of the hand crank lead screws goes through an end plate that's bent from the leg support sheet metal. If you look closely, you'll notice that the lead screw plate is secured to the sidewalls by two sheet metal "ears" and two small dimples in the sidewalls. That looks like a potential source of failure downstream: nothing prevents the sidewalls from separating and allowing the crank to become loose. My fix? Simple: I installed a clamping and securing bolt through the sidewalls just behind the end plate. To secure the sideplates and preventing them from spreading apart, about 1 inch from the end plate, I drilled a ¼" clearance hole through the two sideplates (that also mount the legs) and put a 1 ½ inch long, ¼ -20 bolt with a washer and a locknut. Tightening the locknut makes the endplate securely clamped to the sidewall plates; this will prevent any tendency for that endplate holding the leadscrew and cranking handles from coming loose over time.
Three possibilities come to mind. One is the old standby balsa wood. Balsa is fairly cheap and easy to work with. Several glues can be used with balsa: Elmer's, wood glue, super glue and even an adhesive that is used it wooden model construction. Balsa can be cut with an Exacta knife, or razor blade using a straight edge for straight lines. Sheet plastic is the second material.