Georgia Kelly Harbor Freight January 04th, 2020 - 01:32:34
A brief word on charcoal. Briquettes are, by far, the most popular charcoal type. They light quickly and burn consistently. However, briquettes are made with additives, and those additives produce more ash. Lump charcoal (made by an oxygen deprived burning of hardwood) has no additives, produces less ash, burns much hotter than briquettes, and imparts a slight essence of the native wood to foods. But the biggest advantage of lump over briquettes is that lump can be added directly to the fire because all of the toxins have been burned out of the lump charcoal. Briquettes must be pre-burned; that means another chimney of coals before adding to the fire.
Then, drill a small hole at the end of the crack to relieve pressure and stop the crack from spreading. Next we use a rotary tool to cut a V-notch 5 millimeter wide on the underside of the fairing to give more surface area for the adhesive to attach the two halves of the fairing. Notching on the underside of the fairing helps hide the repair. Next we use a degreaser like Simple Green to clean the plastic of any oil residue or chards of plastic. If the crack is small consider using a two-part plastic epoxy, like the one's that resemble two hypodermic needles, to adhere the plastic together. For bigger cracks we will have to use a soldering iron and melt ABS plastic rods, like the kind sold at Harbor Freight, into the V notch we cut. The key is to get the soldering iron hot and feed but don't force plastic rod into the soldering iron, working the plastic into the puddle. Take your time and work methodically to get melted plastic completely into the cut notch. If the crack is severe it will require bracing that can be made by cutting strips of plastic and adhering the plastic with epoxy across both sides of the crack.
Now use a grease pencil and mark tile to be cut. If you only have a few cuts you can even take them to Lowes and have the tech cut alone your lines but you better be good. Now let this all dry if you have any areas where you did not install the tile do to it is not cut yet, use a putty knife and scrape the wall clean. It is much easier to clean now while wet than after it dry's clean all your tools. And let it sit for 24 hours. Come back and mix your grout, modern grout's have dry acrylic in them already but manufacturers vary so check read the label you might have to add wet additive. Now the trowel that puts grout on the wall is a hard rubber bottom that is real smooth.
Misc small tools: Drill motors at least one, you will drill hundreds if not thousands of holes, but seldom will you need the 1/2 chuck and big power, besides those drills are heavy. one cordless drill is nice to have 18 volt nothing smaller, and a couple spare batteries. Jig saw and finish sanders, just about any will do but get the best your budget will allow. one good random obit sander is a must, sticky back or hook and loop, I've used them both and don't have a favorite.
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So first thing you want to do to get started is to cut the flaps free at the top and the bottom of the box so the flaps remain intact. Find the seam where the machine glued the box together and cut along the crease originally made when the box was assembled. Don't bother trying to save the flap here as it usually tears the veneer from the corrugation.