Jerri Mcmahon Harbor Freight December 11th, 2019 - 02:33:02
I have managed to get fairly smooth finishes by polishing the surface prior to my first coat and building up the paint in light layers. I also sometimes use flat paints and a final gloss coat that usually results in a smooth finish. There really is not a science to good paint finish; it is more of an art that each person develops on their own.
The dimensions of the platform will depend upon the barrel you find. The barrel should ride on inverted casters mounted on the top of the platform. Position the casters so that the barrel will not jump off in either direction. If your barrel has beads where the top and bottom were attached, locate the casters just inside those beads. If your barrel is like mine, with a bead at the top and a taper at the bottom, the wheels should hit the barrel where it tapers at the bottom and just inside the bead at the top. Since there was no bead at the bottom, I attached a board between the wheels at what was the top of the barrel to keep the barrel from jumping off in that direction. The garden cart you plan to use will govern the height of your compost barrel's platform.
Orchard Supply to the rescue once again. The concrete molds have been in stock there forever. So get a walkway mold and align it with on one side or the other of your painted sheet. It's easiest to use a colored pencil similar in color to the color of your base coat. This makes it not so noticeable and you don't always stay within the lines so much, right kids? I tried using a Sharpie on one sheet and I hated myself for all the dark, heavy black lines left to cover. Using the mold upside down, trace the contour of the stones out onto the cardboard. Now, lightly scribe the two outside flanges where the pattern forms a "v" on one side and an "a" on the other side made by the mold's outside shape. These will be the keys to line up the next areas to be scribed since there's no concrete to line up the mold with again and the mold shape itself makes it hard the judge the distance from the last stone to the next to keep the mortar thickness the same. Once I can see the rocks I can't help but miss the ass in my face....yummy.
The fundamental secret to a successful fire is planning. Good fires do not just happen, they are made. What you will need to build the perfect fire is a chimney starter, fuel (hardwood, charcoal, or both), and either newspaper or lighter cubes. If you are using newspaper, crumple two full sheets and stuff into the bottom of the chimney starter. If you prefer lighter cubes (my personal preference) just place one under the chimney starter. Fill the chimney with fist-sized chunks of hardwood, or charcoal, then light the newspaper or lighter cube. When the wood chunks are glowing embers, or the charcoal is covered in gray ash, dump the chimney contents in the firebox.
Be sure to lubricate all moving surfaces with oil, WD-40™ or a dry film lubricant (You can use a light grease on the two lead screws, but if you grease the sliding rail, I think you'll find that the grease will probably be a sawdust magnet!). Be sure to lubricate all sliding or rotating joints and connectors, especially those added washers on the legs where they mount to the sideplates.
He told me that he was so busy he had to take three guys with him just to finish all the work of his mobile car washing route so he could have enough time to do details in the afternoon. Apparently Santa Barbara was in a significant drought situation, and the car wash had been rationed for water. Each morning he would drive down to Ventura fill up his water tanks and drive back because he wasn't allowed to fill up the water tank in Santa Barbara due to the Level III Drought in his area.